![]() Sometimes the ends of these (on either end) tend to break off from wear and tear, this one from YCCTEAM is very durable and is made thick on the ends to prevent that, which is why we chose it. This is a similar looking, and acting item like the AC adapter that originally comes with the switch. The final portable charger we are going to look at today is the traditional AC adapter which plugs into the wall. The below Nintendo Switch docks are not only great for charging, but also for upgrading your current dock, or replacing a broken one. Here’s where to get the GuliKit power bank for your Switch Upgrade Or Replace Your Nintendo Switch Dock With Theseīelow you’ll find some worthy alternatives to the traditional dock that comes with the console. ![]() Whereas the Gulikit focuses more on looks, and the single feature of charging – which it does very well. The Yobwin is more of a rugged case for traveling that also includes a battery. We wouldn’t necessarily call it a competitor to the Yobwin because they fit different needs. Overall the GuliKit power bank is an amazing accessory for the Nintendo switch. Then of course there’s a switch to turn the battery on/off, and an indictator for the current charge capacity available. Notice the input power here is also Type C. This isn't directly dangerous to the Switch itself, but using a 10K ohm cable with a low-powered USB-A charger may overload it, damaging the charger-and a damaged charger could produce unexpected voltage on an output pin, which might in turn damage the Switch as well.Above you’ll find a better look at the IO ports available in this power bank. There are two variants of the cable one with a 10K ohm resistor, and one with a 56K ohm resistor. You may brick your Switch if you use USB-C to USB-A adapter cables. Remember that 6V absolute maximum rating on the Configuration Channel of the Switch's USB-C PD chip? Well, according to USB-C standard, the CC pin only 0.5mm away from the VBus (main power line) pin, which carries 15V. But if they fail short-meaning pins are bridged electrically to pins they have no business connecting to-you may easily overvolt a pin. If the port fails open-meaning pins just don't make electrical contact-there's usually no real harm done. Given that the standard already has pins spaced only 0.5mm apart, even a slight design or manufacturing defect is likely to cause a port to fail. Third parties want to emulate that mechanical feel as closely as possible, but there's no published standard-they basically just take a stab at it and hope for the best. So Nintendo's own dock for the Switch is very slightly narrower than the USB-C standard in order to provide the desired smooth slide instead of the usual snug click. To make things worse, Nintendo wanted the Switch to slide very smoothly in and out of its dock-but the USB-C mechanical design spec doesn't allow for that. Like many cheap USB-C chargers, the Nyko dock does not actually have a dedicated PD controller it instead implements the PD protocol using a general-purpose microcontroller - and that microcontroller was sending 9V to the Switch over the CC pin, exceeding the absolute maximum voltage rating by 50%, and killed the M92T36 inside the Switch. While a wide variety of third-party chargers and cables have been linked to Switch bricking, the most common complaints seem to center on a third-party dock made by Nyko. This means voltage traveling through the CC at more than 6 volts can and will fry the M92T36 chip. In the specs, the absolute max voltage rating for the Configuration Channel (CC) pin to be 6 volts. Though the exact data-sheet of the M92T36 isn’t available publicly, the M92T30 made by ROHM and seem to only differ only by operating voltage. ![]() It appears that the Switch uses an M92T36 Power Delivery chip - and that's the part that most frequently burns out after use of third-party charging equipment. Recently, Redditor "VECTORDRIVER" dived deep into the Nintendo Switch bricking situation. ![]()
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